We asked the experts how to take care of problem skin, what can be changed in their habits now, when there is no opportunity to get to a beautician, and what products to choose.
Problem skin prone to inflammation, acne, comedones and oily sheen, skin with enlarged pores and blackheads. Almost everyone faces similar problems in adolescence, but many have to struggle with acne throughout their entire life.
We talked with experts about the causes of skin problems, how to choose the right products and what to do now – in self-isolation.
Experts: Dermatovenereologist, Medical expert Alexander Prokofiev, Doctor-cosmetologist, dermatovenerologist, Ph.D. Elena Klyuzko.
Why Do Skin Problems Appear?
Alexander Prokofiev: “Human skin is a hormone-dependent organ, therefore, the problems described above arise in adolescence, when the sex glands begin to work. The fact is that the sebaceous hair follicles are sensitive to the effects of sex hormones, and hyperandrogenism is at the heart of the problems. The main hormones affecting the sebaceous hair follicles are male sex hormones. If they are higher than normal, then this condition is called absolute hyperandrogenism (it can also be the cause of hair loss).
But much more often there is relative hyperandrogenism, an increased sensitivity of the cells of the sebaceous glands to the normal level of male sex hormones. This feature can be inherited from parents, so if they had acne, then it is more likely that their children will.
In adulthood, the causes may be improper skin care, some gynecological and endocrine diseases. Also, acne-type rashes can be triggered by certain medications. It is advisable to always consult a doctor to rule out these causes of acne, as well as to choose the right treatment and skin care. “
Elena Klyuzko: “Bad habits (alcohol, smoking), stress, as well as environmental and climatic factors can cause skin reactions. Another reason can be improper cleansing and incorrectly selected cosmetic care. “
Which Stages of Proper Care for Problem Skin?
Alexander Prokofiev: “Mandatory stages of cleansing and using the cream. It is necessary to wash the skin 2 times a day with warm water. For cleansing, you must use specialized products designed specifically for problem skin, for example makeup remover cleansing balm. After cleansing, you can use a lotion or toner that prepares the skin for applying the cream, as well as tightens pores, disinfects and mattifies the skin. Next, select a cream based on the nature of the rash (whether it is comedones, inflammatory rashes).
Look for the following ingredients in the product that will help cope with problem skin: azelaic acid, retinol and its derivatives, sulfur, niacinamide, AHA and BHA acids, glyxil, linoleic acid, zinc, aluminum and calcium salt, allantoin, herbal extracts (calendula , chamomile, green tea, burdock, pumpkin, cedar, sage, aloe vera, witch hazel, etc.), silicon, kaolin, perlite, etc. These ingredients have anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, keratolytic, sebum-regulating and matting effects.
Elena Klyuzko: “Avoid aggressive and alcohol-containing products, soaps, otherwise the surface hydrolipid layer is disturbed, and the skin becomes dehydrated and sensitive.
It is recommended to use products with acids and anti-inflammatory components once a day. The second time a day, a gentle moisturizer to cleanse sensitive skin.
For deeper cleansing of the skin, you can use peels, but not more often 1-2 times a week.
When choosing a moisturizer, pick out light textures. Also, be sure to use sunscreen with SPF factors to avoid post-traumatic pigmentation of inflammatory elements.
Pay attention to acids: salicylic, almond, glycolic, lactic, trichloroacetic – they remove dead cells (relieve the skin of hyperkeratosis), and also have anti-inflammatory effects. Zinc and sulfur in cosmetics regulate sebum production. Clay masks are great for unclogging pores, and clay is anti-inflammatory. Tea tree oil is an excellent antiseptic. “
What Cosmetic Procedures are Needed for People with Skin Problems?
Elena Klyuzko: “There are several ways to remove inflammatory elements and make the skin fresher. As a rule, professional cleaning is prescribed. The main thing is not to clean the house yourself because of the risk of a large number of complications. Problem skin is well helped by chemical peels based on acids and retinol, used in the course to smooth out the skin’s relief, to fight acne and post-acne.
To obtain an anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effect, as well as to even out the color and texture of the skin of the face, it is possible to prescribe a course of plasma therapy, a rejuvenating procedure, during which the patient’s own plasma rich in platelets is injected by intradermal injections. Growth factors, which are contained in the plasma, influence the increase in the number of young skin cells, in other words, they trigger active mechanisms of cell renewal and rejuvenation.
You can prescribe a course of mesotherapy with complexes of vitamins and amino acids and carry it out in combination with photorejuvenation (BBL broadband light or photodynamic PDT therapy). Phototherapy tightens pores, removes excess grease, which leads to the gradual disappearance of comedones. The skin becomes smoother and more toned. “
Alexander Prokofiev: “Definitely, any cosmetic procedures can be prescribed only after visiting a dermatologist or cosmetologist, as they depend on the nature and abundance of the rash. Remember that in the active stage in the presence of inflammatory rashes, cosmetic procedures are not carried out. “
How to Replace Them with Professional Procedures During Self-isolation?
Elena Klyuzko: “Consult your cosmetologist. Home care and possibly medication can be advised. At home, you can use peels, masks, Darsonval apparatus (but with mandatory prior consultation on the subject of contraindications). And don’t forget to follow a low sugar diet. “
Alexander Prokofiev: “Since we are sitting at home, then give up decorative cosmetics, as it can clog the pores of the skin. Pay attention to the diet, for some people, the skin condition may worsen from eating fast food or dairy products. Now is the time to change your eating habits. ”